Attempt of Mt. Robson by West Arête.
L To R: B. S. Darling, H. H. Prouty, Walter Schauffelberger.
Photo C. H. Mitchell, 1913 Canadian Alpine Journal 1915
b. 1885 — Toronto, Ontario, Canada
d. 1962 — Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
During the Robson Camp of 1913 three attempts were made to climb Mount Robson, one of which resulted in the ascent and traverse of the great mountain, an exploit performed with a judgment, dash and finish that should place it in the category of historic climbs. Too much credit cannot be given to W. W. Foster, A. H. MacCarthy and that prince of guides, Conrad Kain, for this fine achievement; probably the most notable piece of mountaineering ever accomplished in Canada. An account of it will be found elsewhere in these pages. It has fallen to me to write of the other attempts, in both of which I had the good fortune to take part. The description of them may be of some interest to other explorers, seeing that new routes were followed and the summit almost attained on each occasion.
The successful ascent on the 31 st July, made the Director ambitious to have another route explored, so on the afternoon of Sunday, August 3rd, he despatched H. H. Prouty and myself, under Walter Schauffelberger’s guidance, to attack the west arête.
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After two nights on the mountain, they were forced by weather to turn back about 100m from the summit.
- — “Passion for Mountain Climbing.” B.C. Magazine, 1910 (1910)
- — “The practical side of mountaineering. Some of the rules and requirements of the climber’s craft.” Man-to-Man Magazine, Vol 6, No. 9 (1910)
- — “Winter mountaineering at the coast.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 2, No. 2 (1910):136. Alpine Club of Canada [accessed 4/2/2025]
- — “Up the Bow and down the Yoho.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 3 (1911):107-115. Alpine Club of Canada [accessed 4/2/2025]
- — “First attempt on Robson by the West Arête.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 6 (1914–1915):29-34
- — and MacCarthy, Albert H. [1876–1956]. “An ascent of Mt. Robson from the Southwest.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 6 (1915):34-42
- 1913 ACC Camp – Mount Robson
- Conrad Kain [1883–1934]
- 1. Darling, Basil Stewart [1885–1962]. “First attempt on Robson by the West Arête.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 6 (1914–1915):29-34