Camp on Calumet Creek, below Moose Pass. James Shand-Harvey, George Kinney, Conrad Kain, Donald “Curly” Phillips, Charles Walcott Jr., Harry H. Blagden, Ned Hollister, J. H. Riley and A. O. Wheeler. Smithsonian-Alpine Club of Canada Robson Expedition (1911 )Photo: Byron Harmon, 1911. Canadian Alpine Journal 1912, p. 34. Original negative: Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies

A.O. Wheeler, Donald “Curly” Phillips, Harry Blagden, Ned Hollister, Charles Walcott Jr., James Shand-Harvey, Casey Jones and Rev. George B. Kinney, near Maligne Lake, Smithsonian-ACC Robson Expedition
Photo: Byron Harmon, 1911 Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies

The 1911 Alpine Club of Canada–Smithsonian Robson Expedition was led by Arthur Oliver Wheeler [1860–1945] [1860–1945], director of the Alpine Club of Canada.

In his report of the the Alpine Club of Canada’s expedition to the Mount Robson region, Arthur Oliver Wheeler [1860–1945] wrote:

Mount Robson is undoubtedly the highest peak of the region, and would also seem to be the highest peak of the main range of the Canadian Rockies.… These expeditions [by Coleman, Kinney, and Mumm] and the various reports and rumours of magnificent peaks, great icefields, wonderful glaciers and gloriously coloured lakes had kept the Yellowhead section of the mountains well before the public, so when the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway pushed the advancing steel in sight of the main range, it was decided by the Alpine Club of Canada to organize an expedition and make direct investigations on its own behalf and in accordance with the propaganda laid down in its constitution, viz., the encouragement of mountain craft and the opening of new regions as a national playground.

Mountaineering was not the primary object and the ascent of Robson Peak for the second time had not even received consideration. The intention was to investigate the facilities for holding one of the Club’s big camps close to the great monolith and, while doing so, to make topographical survey of such area as might fall within the scope of the expedition, using photo-topographic methods a as a basis of the work. Notwithstanding, some thirty peaks were climbed, ranging in altitude from 7,000 to 11,000 feet above sea-level.

The expedition was made possible through the co-operation of the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway, which contributed handsomely towards the expenses. The railway company proposed to open up the northern section of the mountains in a manner similar a to that being done by the Canadian Pacific Railway in the southern section, and was naturally interested in the publicity that would ensue.

The original party consisted of the writer in charge, Konrad Kain, the Club’s professional guide, Byron Harmon, the Club’s official photographer, a and a cook, with the transport and outfitting in the hands of Donald Phillips. Later, George B Kinney was added as an assistant. Subsequent co-operation and financial assistance by the British Columbia, Alberta and Dominion Governments made it’ possible to enlarge the scope of the expedition, and an investigation of the fauna, flora, and geology was added to the topographical work first planned. An attempt was made to interest Canadian scientists in the expedition, but without success, so the matter was submitted to Dr. Charles Walcott, Secretary of the Smithsonian Institute of Washington, who collaborate most heartily and sent a party of four to join and work with the Alpine Club.
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Charles Doolittle Walcott [1850–1927], secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, agree to conduct scientific studies under the permit of the geology, flora and fauna of the area. Walcott did not participate in the 1911 expedition, but in 1912 Walcott

The general line of travel may be described as follows: Commencing at Henry House, the eastern extremity of the survey, the route lay up the valleys of the Athabaska and Miette Rivers to the summit of the Continental Divide at the Yellowhead Pass. Thence down the valley of Yellowhead Lake and Fraser River for seventeen miles to the junction of the Moose River with the Fraser. Then up the Moose River Valley to the Moose Pass, where the Continental Divide was again crossed, and down the valley of Calumet Creek (local name Pipestone Creek), to the Smoky River Valley. The Smoky River Valley was next ascended to the Robson Pass where, re-crossing the Continental Divide, the valley of the Grand Fork River was followed to the Fraser Valley, which was ascended to the junction of the Moose River Valley. By this means complete irregular circuit of very nearly 100 miles was made round Mt. Robson, the first that ever has been made, and all the enclosed territory was surveyed as well as a considerable area outside of it.

— Wheeler 1912